What is happening with the fashion industry?
This is perhaps my fourth rewrite for this month’s Letter from the Editor, due to the constant changes in the fashion industry over the past week. I’ll explain; When I first wrote my draft letter, it mainly focused on the spring season and how it’s finally hit the cities and hit the stores as well. The collections are all available to purchase, but what to purchase might be the question – so I wanted to introduce that this month would be mainly about trends for the seasons, with particular emphasis on wearability in this part of the globe.
However, when I set out to the publish the article, the news broke that Alessandro Sartori – Artistic Director of menswear label Berluti has decided to exit the brand after dedicating 5 years to it. The designer, who is known for his impermeable work-ethic and politeness, made the announcement 10 days after showcasing the Berluti Fall/Winter ’16/17 collection at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
The very next day the announcement came that Stefano Pilati, designer at Ermenegildo Zegna, has also decided to step down and exit the brand. Although he spent just 3 years at the label, he had finally sewn himself onto the brand and with every collection was making wearable couture for men.
Two days later, another announcement from Eremegildo Zegna Group said that the brand has officially hired Alessandro Sartori as the Artistic Director of Zegna. Early on, before Berluti, Alessandro Sartori had actually been a director for Zegna Z, the brand’s more playful line, but had stepped down – and signed up with Berluti.
This game of musical chairs at menswear brands could have very possibly come as an aftershock to when the whole fashion community shook when Raf Simons had decided to leave Dior and Alber Elbaz had stepped down at Lanvin. The tectonic plates of the fashion industry are shifting, and a lot will continue to change over the year.
The rumour mill also heard that Phoebe Philo might exit from her role at Celiné. According to The Fashion Law – it is said that the she is staying on with the brand to complete the marketing for the AW ’16 collection before she marks her exit.
Late last year, British designer Jonathan Saunders decided to step down from his role at his eponymous label, which lead to the brand closing its doors. Similarly, early last year, Kris Van Assche, menswear designer at Dior Homme, announced to completely dedicate his time and efforts at Dior Homme by shutting down operations at his eponymous label.
The fashion industry at a whole took a lot of hits last year, and this year again, with many designers leaving labels. Yet a bigger, bolder, moment in fashion arises.
Yesterday, in big news, Burberry announced that the brand has decided to stop operations on conventional fashion week modules set up as an industry standard and preview two “seasonless” shows a year – one in February and another in September, both featuring mens and women’s collections side-by-side. The highlight of this announcement, however, remains that the brand will stock the collections the moment the show takes place; so immediately the clothes would be available to purchase online and in stores.
The next day itself (and we finally come onto today) Tom Ford and Vetemenets decide to join Burberry in this radical move and have decided to step away from the standard rules of fashion and fashion weeks.
It has been quite an eventful start to the year, and shows no signs of slowing. Yet, the only thing we can hope for is exciting fashion in these times of turmoil.
For now, and this month, keep updated with the menswear trends, how to style them and where to sport them on Vesque Magazine. Click on, read on.